Jewellery Manufacturers & InformationArt Deco – Elegance & glamour these are some of the qualities we associate today with Art Deco movement, especially its jewellery. During the 1960’s and 1970’s, Art Deco jewellery became one of the most collectible jewellery on the 20th Century, and remains so still. The style only acquired its name in the 1960’s. In 1924, the major Paris jewellery houses displayed their most up-to-date Art Deco creations at the Grand Central Palace in New York. These proved an inspiration to leading American jewellers such as Tiffany, and in turn copied by costume jewellers.
Art - Unusual designs with a Victorian or Deco style done in antique gold-tone metals. Commonly used unusual colour combinations of rhinestones and cabochons 1940's to 1970's
Askew - circa 1980's London
Atwood & Sawyer - Founded in England in 1956 by Horace Atwood (Sawyer was a silent partner) Atwood & Sawyer produced copies of 18th and 19th century precious jewellery, many pieces for the Dallas and Dynasty TV series, and glittering diamante compositions for the Miss World competitions.
Bijoux M.G. – Manufacturer of statement pieces originating from Czechoslovakia. Not too much is known about this mysterious manufacturer apart from all the pieces have stunning rhinestones. All Bijoux M.G. pieces are heavily soldered but not plated on the back, and their pieces are always signed with an oval plaque.
Boucher – Marcel Boucher, one of the most celebrated designers of costume jewellery, began his career in France working as an apprentice model-maker for Cartier. In the 1920’s he was transferred from Paris to Cartier’s New York workshop. After the 1929 Wall Street crash, the business was cut back and Boucher worked for other jewellers including Mazer Brothers. In spring 1939 he approached SAKs Fifth Avenue with some of his own designs, these were accepted and launched Boucher’s career. When Boucher died in 1965 Sandra his wife took over the company, which continued to make jewellery until the 1970’s
BSK - Little is known about BSK, other than it was based in New York and was in business from around 1950 to the early 1980's.
Butler & Wilson - After selling antique jewellery from London market stalls, Nicky Butler and Simon Wilson opened a shop in the early 1970's and started selling their own jewellery based on reproductions of period styles. By the 1980's, they were selling their jewellery around the world. Their pieces are glizy and diamante studded. Early 1070's designs in particular are now highly collectable.
Christian Dior – In February 1947, Christian Dior, an almost unknown Frenchman aged 40, opened his own famous fashion house in the Avenue Montaigne, Paris, revealing for the first time the flowing, feminine lines of what came to be known as “New Look”. Dior’s costume jewellery, created freshly for each twice-yearly collection, played an important part – some pieces accentuated the romantic, feminine mood, others were an adventurous foil to more formal, tailored clothes. Although manufactured by outside companies, most pieces designed by Dior himself, who maintained strict quality control.
Ciner - Emanuel Ciner was a New York City jeweller who founded "Ciner" in 1892. Ciner originally made fine jewellery and then in 1930's started to make costume jewellery. Ciner costume jewellery is famous for being upmarket and featured sterling silver, 24K gold plating and high quality rhinestones, crystals, faux pearls, glass beads and enamel work. Highly collectible.
Coro – 1901 to present - One of the most highly mass-produced line of costume jewellery in history.
Czech Jewellery - From the 1890's to the late 1930's the jewellery makes of Gablonz in Czechoslovakia produced a distintive and romantic style of costume jewellery. Glass stones in rich purples and delicate pastels were set into filigree backings. Czech jewellery is usually unsigned but it is sometimes marked "Czech" or "Czechoslovakia"
Empire Made - Circa 1960
England - The McKinley Tariff Act of 1891 required Countries to mark items imported into the US with the Country of origin "England" "Made in England" and "Made in Great Britain" have been used since that time
Florenza – 1940s to 1981 Intricately detailed jewellery, often Victorian in appearance with lots of use of antique goldtone metal.
Givenchy – 1950s to present Classic design work in large scale. Lots of use of gold plating, Lucite and other plastics
Henkel and Grosse - Founded in 1907 by Henrich Henkel and Florentine Grosse, Germany
Beginning in 1955, they made 4 collections a year for Christian Dior.
Hobe – 1887 to present Highly imaginative designs with Byzantine or Victorian look. Stones are usually bezel set. Highly inticate designs with stunning variety of stone colorurs.
Joseff – Used mainly for Hollywood films, however during the 1940s and 1950s a Joseff retail line was for sale in limited quantities at very select department stores and boutiques. Use of antique gold-tone metals which did not have a high reflective quality for use in the film industry. The use of this type of metals carried over to the retail line as well. All highly imaginative designs with fanatastic detail.
JBK USA - Jackie Bouvier Kennedy collection - manufactured by Camrose & Kross circa 1960 to 1963
Juliana Jewellery - produced DeLizza and Elster, which was founded in 1967 for such venerable costume jewellers such as Hattie Carnegie, Hobe, Kenneth J Lane and Weiss. In 1967, decided to create a brand of their own by placing paper tags with the Juliana trademark on some of their pieces, hence why they are not generally signed, The brand lasted barely two years, but it became synonymous with DeLizza & Elster. Vintage Juliana pieces (which include unlabeled piceses created before 1967) typically feature rhinestones such as aurora borealis, milk glass, clear cystals and unlike much of the vintage costume jewellery from this period, Juliana pices are almost all stone, with very little metal showing - Juliana pieces have become very collectable.
Kramer – 1940s to 1970s Beautiful jewellery produced with an abundance of spakling Austrian crystals in either clear or a variety of colours. All rhinestones are of the highest quality.
Kenneth Jay Lane – Since the 1960’s KJL has been one of the most successful and popular contemporary designers of costume jewellery. Lane began working in New York City for Vogue magazine and his career was quickly launched. His designs perfectly matched his famous clients’ desire for glamor and luxury. There are now many avid collectors of Lane’s pieces.
Leru -Pelton & Leru Corp, NY - circa 1950's to 1960's
Les Bernard - 1963 to 1996 - Founded by Bernard Shapiro, son of Harold Shapiro of Vogue Jewelry, and Lester Joy, thus the name Les Bernard. Manufactured jewellery for Mary McFadden and the Dynasty Colletion for the TV show.
Lisner - Founded in New York City in 1904, it spent approx the first three decades of its existence selling jewellery that didn't bear its company name, and distributing jewellery for others. In the late 20th century, Lisner jewellery was largely overlooked by collectors, This is no longer the case, its distintive designs, especially those from the 1950's and 1960's, are becoming increasingly sought after.
Miriam Haskell – Born in India in 1899 by 1924 moved to New York and opened a small shop in the smart McAlpine Hotel, selling original handmade jewellery inspired by natural motifs such as flowers, shells, and leaves. By 1926 her work was in demand from retailers, and she established the Miriam Haskell company.
Napier - Founded in 1875, Napier originally made silverware,but shifted emphasis to modern jewellery after World War 1 and stayed in business until 1999.
Nina Ricci - was an Italian-born French fashion designer who founded the House of Nina Ricci in Paris in 1932. Paris, France/Toronto Canada makers of precious jewellery as well as costume from Sept 1960.
Oscar de la Renta, NY - became internationally known in the 1960's as one of the couturiers who dressed Jacqueline Kennedy. Award-winning designer, he worked for Lanvin and Balmain. His eponymous fashion house founded in 1965 continues to dress leading figures, from film stars to royalty. Some costume jewellery only identified by the Oscar de la Renta price tag.
Panetta - 1945 to the early 1980s Fantastic jewellery with exquisite detail. Designs ranged from rhinestones encrusted Art Deco styles to enamelled figurals, all very collectible.
Robert - is the trademark of the Fashioncraft Jewelry Company, founded in New York in 1942 which changed its name to Robert Originals, Inc in 1960.
Robert De Mario - was founded in New York in 1945 and continued trading until 1945 and continued trading until the early 1860's. DeMario pieces are distinctive for their bold designs, featuring clusters of colourful rhinestones and glass beads, due to production of small amounts DeMario jewellery is rarer than most marked vintage costume jewllery.
Sandor - small costume jewellery company founded by Sandor Goldberger in 1938. The company ceased trading in 1972. Sandor jewellery is renowned for its artistry and craftmanship. The fact it is rare makes it highly collectable.
Sarah Coventry - From 1949 to 1984, Sarah Coventry was a successful company selling costume jewellery through parties in peoples homes. The company did not design or make its own jewellery but purchased designs that were manufactured by other jewellers.
Swarovski - Swarovski has been creating high quality Austrian crystal thinestones since the late 1800's. In 1985, Swarovski launched their first line of fashion jewellery utilising these rhinestones in limited quantities and originally being offered to members of its collectors club.
Trifari – In 1904, Gustavo Trifari, who was descended from a long line of jewellers, left Naples for New York, where he worked for his uncle making costume jewellery. In 1912 he began operating under his own name, producing hair ornaments and accessories. The salesman Leo Krussman joined trifari 1917, and the reputation of Trifari jewels started to grow. Thr firm was officiaaly founded in 1925 by Gustavo Trifari, Leo Krussman and Carl M. Fishel. In 1930 they French designer Alfred Philippe, whose elegant and innovative ideas were to contribute greatly to the success of the company. Trifari jewels were made for Broadway musicals in the 1930’s, and their popularity caused department stores nationwide to carry their lines. Today Trifari remains one of the largest American manufacturers of costume jewellery.
Valentino Garavani Italian fashion designer, better known as Valentino first apprenticeship, in Paris was with Jacques Fath the Balenciaga, he also joined Guy Laroche for 2 years before setting up his own fashion house in Rome in 1959. Clients included Rothschild and Elizabeth Taylor.
Vendome - Created by one of America's leading costume jewellery manufacturers, Coro, the brand brought the essence of Parisian chic to the US market. Coro first used the Vendome mark on its charm bracelets, faux pearl necklaces, and other premium range jewellery items in 1944, by 1953 a complete Vendome range was established which was designed to replace Corocraft, Coros most expensive range. Named for place Vendome, a Parisian square known for its famous houses, the line was marketed at the wealthy American's those seeking to emulate the panache of post-war Paris. The Company closed in 1979.
Vogue (Les Bernard) - Trading from the mid 1930's to the early 1970's, Vogue is best known for its fine quality, utilising materials as diverse as marcasite, Austrian crystals, enamel and chromed steel.
Volupte - From 1926 in New Jersey until it ceased trading in the late 1950's. Volupte was best known for its elegant powder compacts, purses and cigarette cases. However, it also produced a limited quantity of costume jewellery
Weiss – 1940s to early 1970s Jewellery which was always produced with high quality Austrian crystal rhinestones. Known for its jewellery that was similar to Eisenberg, as well as its lovely rhinestone encrusted butterflies, fruit, and flowers from the 1950s.
YSL - Christian Dior protege Yves Saint Laurent established his own fashion house in 1961 and launced the first YSL collection the following year. His jewellery introduced in the 1970's, is theatrical, colourful and displays the same clarity of form inherrent in his clothing.